1998 Alban Vineyards, Pandora, Edna Valley 1×1.5L

Robert Parker 90

The proprietary Rhone varietal blend, the 1998 Pandora, still smells like a barrel sample. Its saturated purple color is accompanied by wild (as the French say, sauvage) notes of animal fur and black fruits. Slightly rustic, with noticeable acidity as well as aggressive tannin, this medium-bodied effort reminds me of a coarse, full-throttle, just-bottled Rhone wine. Give it time to settle down and enjoy it over the next 6-15 years. Tel. (805) 546-0305 [Robert M. Parker, Jr., 28/02/2002]

Anticipated maturity: 2002-2017

Vinous 93

Saturated medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, gunflint, violet face powder, rose petal, smoked meat, cinnamon, mocha, sandalwood, white pepper and truffle; I might have guessed Bandol from a very warm year. Great sweetness and intensity in the mouth; powerful, penetrating and rich. Creamy but not at all heavy thanks to lively acidity. Finishes very long and brisk, with fine tannins. I might have scored this even higher had not the truffley quality increased with extended aeration. [Stephen Tanzer, 05/01/2001]